Friday, March 11, 2011

In my secret life...

…there are times when I hate France. Here’s why:

Up until a few months ago, the only Internet option in this village was a pokey dialup. Dropped connections, unreliable phone lines, frequent outages, fried modems. Then France Telecom installed DSL. Hallelujah?

Not so much. Every time a new customer’s hooked into the system, someone else is bumped out, disconnected. Yesterday it was our turn. Again. No phone, no Internet. No Customer Service you could count on either. Modern times, modern angst – French style. No wonder they so frequently take to the streets here.

Which is what I did: with research to do, online lessons to teach and promises to keep, the wretched and the weak (aka me) gathered up heart and France Telecom file, hiked over to the Post Office and called 3900 (Customer Service) from the PO phone. The odds are there to beat…

An accent from northern Africa answers. At least we both speak French and he seems to have a sense of humor. He runs through the list of standard questions, the last of which: “Are you calling from your landline?” I hear the edge in my voice as I tell him again that the reason I’m calling is because our phone is OUT, as in “it does not work,” so no, I am not calling from our home phone because it does not work. I am calling from the village Post Office phone. “Are you near your computer and router box?” he asks. No, I am not, because I am not at home, I am at the Post Office, I politely reply.

He asks for my cell phone number and tells me he’ll call me at home, on my cell, in five minutes. Twenty minutes go by before my cell rings. Pretty good, almost record time in fact and I appreciate it. He asks me to turn off the router box, wait three minutes then turn it back on. This, he says, will re-boot the system and all will be fine. I tell him that I’ve already done that, twice, before calling Customer Service. He decides to test the line. Announces that it’s not functioning normally. I don’t say that it's a good thing he’s on the other side of the Mediterranean.

Next, he proposes that we uninstall and re-install the router box. He is trained to assume the customer is in the wrong. He is trained to avoid confirming that the problem lies with FT’s phone line or Internet service. I do not share his illusion. Still, perhaps a reinstallation will fix the problem, so I follow his rather odd and lengthy instructions. Over an hour later, nothing has been repaired and now the router box is not working at all.

Mr. Customer Service calmly concludes that there “may” have been an “incident” and that, according to the report he’s reading on his computer screen, our phone service will be re-established in two weeks. Two weeks. No phone service, no Internet service for two weeks. This is unacceptable, I tell him with equal calm, explaining that I work online, that this is far from the first time our service has been interrupted and that I will be sending a very large bill to France Telecom. He gives me the appropriate department number and asks if there is anything else he can do for me, to which I reply: “What else can you do for me?” He can check back in the morning to see if the system is working (he doesn’t call).  Bonne fin de journée, au revoir, madame. No wait, I need you… I don’t need you… I need you… I don’t need you…

I need music. Now. At least the electricity’s still working (not always the case). I put on The Essential Leonard Cohen. There is no Essential Guide to France Telecom. No one would know where to start. So I’m counting on Leonard. Nothing can kill you in his tower of song.

He’s wrong though about that “ain’t no cure for love” thing. There’s a cure for Francophile love: going toe to toe with France Telecom on a regular basis. Descartes be hanged; these are Post Modern times and logic is dead. Even the French are pulling their hair out. Especially the women. Ever notice older women in France? Thin hair. Thin. Their service provider is probably France Telecom.

I listen to Cohen through both CDs then head to bed. As I drift off, I’m hearing France Telecom chant, “give me absolute control over every single living soul.” I punch back with: “I’ve seen the future, it is murder.”

When I wake up, I glance at the router box. Nope, the Internet angels have forgotten to pray for us. So I get dressed and head for the Mairie, where I ask Monsieur le Maire to call someone important, use a little muscle to rectify this mess once and for all (it’s election time). I learn that ours wasn’t the only line disconnected yesterday. But ours is the only line still out. The secretary tells me she’ll call France Telecom, give them our info and have them call me on my cell. Hours later the Mairie is closed and no one’s called. Sublimating, I eat M&Ms by the fistful, including the blue ones. Living in France sometimes drives you to drastic measures.

I make a command decision, to do exactly what France Telecom tells you never to do without their assistance: un-install and re-install our router box. The Customer Service guy from yesterday probably did something wrong, left out a step. He’s the expert (ah-hem) but who knows, maybe he screwed up. I glance through the manual, toss it on the floor and go to work.

Fifteen minutes later, it’s V-day in the trenches. We're back on boogie street.


 

Monday, March 7, 2011

Pour les nuls

The For Dummies folks are celebrating ten years of success. Back in the 90s, an American editor had the brilliant idea of publishing a practical manual for those who knew absolutely nothing about computers, at a moment when personal computers were not quite a household fixture, but were rapidly becoming so. They started in 1991 with DOS for Dummies by Dan Gookin, and now cover a wide range of topics. The collection is published in France under the title Pour les nuls, .

The French title was a brilliant translation coup: the word nul is as omnipresent in French life; it conveys a variety of meanings, from the obvious "null/nil/invalid" to "useless," "hopeless" and even "worthless"; it's a catchy word that rolls off the tongue as easily as dumb and dummy, with the same double edge of humor and disparagement.

Initially the books were translated into French for the French speaking market. Then in 2000, Vincent Barbare of Editions First was given the green light to expand the collection, using French authors on subjects culturally specific to the French. According to an interview with Barbare in last Friday's Midi Libre, success was modest at best until, in 2004, L'histoire de France pour les nuls exploded on the market.

Not all that long ago no self-respecting librarian in France would consider putting a Pour les nuls book on their shelves, whereas today the series is highly visible and collaborates with icons such as the Louvre (Le Louvre pour les nuls). Barbare attributes the Nuls' success to an interesting, fun approach that lets curious, modest French souls learn without knocking themselves out.

In the beginning, it was difficult to find authors to pen the French books, but now experts are clamoring at the gates. Some even consider a Nuls collaboration a veritable feather in their cap, un titre de gloire, as Barbare  puts it. So much so that Barbare, reluctantly, is forced to refuse proposals by some very well known authors. Obviously being an authority on a subject does not suffice; to be a Nuls writer, you have to know how to adopt the right tone, a nul voice that explains the subject matter with both expertise and humor.

The For Dummies collection is published in thirty-three languages, but its greatest sales -- and by far -- are in France. Why the French are "the most nuls" is an inviting question. Are they more curious than other cultures? Are they lazier readers (shorter chapters) or -- ahem -- are they more into efficiency (shorter chapters)? Is there a connection to the emphasis that French culture places on personal responsibility? Is it tied to the French tendency to claim (some) knowledge on (almost) every topic? To the French aversion to saying je ne sais pas ?

I don't know. Perhaps someone should propose the subject to Pour les nuls.