Saturday, February 26, 2011

A "Barque de Poste 1818" is Reborn in the Cevennes


With the very passionate and eloquent Robert Mornet at the helm, local fans of the 1818 model boats that used to run on France's famous Canal du Midi banded together in the Cevennes to build their own 1818 barque. No real vestige of the historic wooden vessels remain. 


At Mornet's request, ship builder Alain Dorado recreated construction plans for the 1818 barque. Blueprints in hand in 2007, Mornet began to build an exact replica of the boat in his backyard, under the protective cover of an agricultural greenhouse. This weekend -- four years later -- the nearly complete vessel is being unveiled in order to paint it and finish the roof. Supporters gathered last night in the Médiathèque Intercommunale in the small town of Le Vigan, to honor the historic moment and the man who made the dream come true.

The Barques de Poste were canal boats, similar to stagecoaches in function: they were water coaches harnessed to one or two horses that pulled them from a towpath running along the canal. The same type of towing system was used along the famous Chesapeake & Ohio canal in the United States; many other examples exist worldwide. 

The French system was put into service in 1681, between Toulouse and Agde; other routes were added later. In the beginning, the journey took 4 days, traveling at a speed of 8 kilometers per hour. There was a boat change at each lock, to save both time and water. In all there were nearly 25 locks and a fleet of 40 Barques de Poste. The number of passengers transported on the canal reached 100,000 a year. Each boat could hold up to 50 passengers; there was no meal service, nor any sleeping accommodations. Travelers either brought food aboard with them or ate and slept in inns (auberges) along the way. The advent of the rail system spelled the end of the canal transport system: unable to compete with the speed and efficiency of the trains, Barques de Poste service was terminated in 1858.

Voyages on the new Barque de Poste will maintain historic authenticity: the crew, coachman (postilion) and all personnel will be dressed in period costumes. The boat will be pulled by horses when possible along the towpaths. For stretches where that isn't possible, a motor will be used.

The maiden voyage plans to make the historic Toulouse-Sète trip in 8 days, and if possible, go as far as Beaucaire in 8 more days. Round-trip. Under no obligation to book passage for the entire trip, passengers will have the option of getting on at one lock and off at the next. As in days long gone by, transportation will be charged by the kilometer: if you ride for 10 kilometers only,  that's the distance you pay for. In the spirit of supporting local tourism and businesses,  meals will be taken in local establishments along the route. The same goes for overnight lodging, for passengers and crew alike. 

The Barque de Poste plans to offer daily on-board activities, with musicians, story tellers, historic commentaries and exhibits. Monsieur Mornet refers to the presenters as "clandestins" (illegals), in a gesture of open criticism of French President Nicolas Sarkozy's hotly contested campaign against illegal immigrants.

You can find more information about the Barque de Poste on the web site for the project: http://www.barquedeposte.org/index.html  It's in French, but even if you can't make sense of the text, you can still enjoy the numerous photos!